by Drew Coffey   November/December 2008

A word for the “little guy”: There are so many major attractions in the Warwick area—for instance, the wonderful Warwick Valley Winery (114 Little York Road, 845.258.4858, www.wwinery.com)—that I could write about each for pages. Instead, I’ve decided to focus on one excellent bed & breakfast and a Saturday morning spent on Main Street in the heart of the village.

But first, on my way out of school Friday afternoon my principal cheerfully tells me that on Monday my teaching schedule will have to be completely revamped! Then it’s off to Warwick, a place I’ve never been, a destination Map Quest whimsically imagines I shall appreciate more after driving down every county road, ski trail, and cow path between here and Pennsylvania. My mood is hardly improved by one-lane bridges under construction, intersections where “Canaan Road” crosses “Old Canaan Road,” and where, at a deserted rural crossing, as daylight fades, the number of choices fans out like stalks of wheat. Since Warwick is less than an hour west of NYC I could, with one wrong turn, end up spending the night in New Jersey or Pennsylvania as easily as New York state.

Eventually, after an hour of the sun setting directly in my eyes and, I swear, the clear sound of rifle shots, I come around a wide, gentle curve and am almost literally stunned by the sight of four or five shimmering copper-coated horses grazing in a field, the grass deeply green, the sun going down behind the rolling hills, and the air as soft as caterpillar fur. I make a very theatrical “Pfft!” sound to show God or Mother Nature or Old MacDonald that I am not such a pushover that I can be seduced by a rail fence, a sunset, and a few animals who look as though they are posing for George Stubbs. But I am fooling no one, not even myself; suddenly the work week is past and forgotten. I am only minutes away from what I am confident will be a warm welcome and a soft bed.

The Inn at Stony Creek (34 Spanktown Road, 845.986.3660, www.innstonycreek.com) dates from around 1840, with additions in the 1860s and, currently, a further expansion that will allow for small in-house events and celebrations. Most of the original residents of this beautiful rural site were dairy cows, so I’m not the least self-conscious about the look of bovine contentment that settles over my face in about five minutes. Owner Bill Signor and his partner Joe Campone have matched solid 19th-century antiques with 21st-century comfort and timeless consideration for their guests. A crackled portrait on the wall shows a gentleman with a frosty expression, but then he couldn’t wiggle his toes in front of a cheerful gas fire and I can. My night’s sleep is deep and undisturbed, and if not for the smell of bacon, coffee, and toast, I might still be luxuriating in bed.

The inn looks and feels like deep country, but the town of Warwick is only 10 minutes away, so  right after breakfast I get in my car and 10 minutes later slide into a parking space on Main Street. Don’t you think all of our shopping should be done in buildings that are recognized by the National Registry of Historic Places? The Country Life obviously does (40 Main St., 845.544.2250, www.thecountrylifestore.com), and I would be a fool to disagree. Housed in the impressive W. T. Anderson building (circa 1890), the owners, Ken and Debbie Kroslak, offer everything from organic peanut butter to an impressive selection of fabrics for in-house furniture- or home-decorating. Check out their reproductions of classic ‘30s and ‘40s posters centered on Warwick.

Caffe a la Mode (1 Oakland Ave., 845.986.1233) has perhaps the best indoor people-watching location in town, on the corner of Oakland and Railroad Avenues. Antique multi-paned windows look out on everyone going by, and the smart people come if for coffee, a full breakfast or sandwiches. Calling John Sayles! This would be the ideal place to set a scene where a father treats his son to Saturday breakfast before the boy goes off to college or the Army… or where girls sit and gossip in a booth about what happened last night at you-know-who’s house. I could sit all morning, but the sun is warm enough to enjoy the outdoors, so I take a stroll onto Railroad Avenue.
My first stop, and it should be yours, too, is at The Eclectic Eye (16-18 Railroad Ave., 845.986.5520 or www.theeclecticeye.com) antique store and contemporary art gallery. Immediately inside the entry (it’s a converted auto body shop, so the doors are wonderfully wide) my eye is caught by a mantle clock at just about half of what I would expect to pay in Vermont or Maine. Never buy a surprise for someone you wouldn’t be willing to keep for yourself, Mother always said, so while the owner, George Laurence, is wrapping the clock, I happily imagine where I’ll put it in my apartment if I’m lucky and my sister doesn’t love it at Christmas.

George doesn’t care in the least that I’ve had a full breakfast at Stony Creek and a second breakfast at Caffe a la Mode. Tucked behind the Burger King is Jean Claude’s Artisan Bakery and Dessert Café, and George insists that I go (25 Elm St., 845.986.8900, www.warwickinfo.net). George: Thank you. Luckily, there is a woman ordering a cake for a relative’s 90th birthday, and while she debates frosting options, decoration, and flavors for the cream filling, I manage to put away several sample squares of a tarte aux poires. The artisanal breads are crusty and the almond croissant I eat later in the car is perfect. If I weren’t somewhat encumbered by the clock, I would happily treat myself to a box of the dessert pastries showing off, rich with raspberries and lemon and mocha, in the display case.

Just before saying a reluctant goodbye to Warwick, I stroll up the other side of Main Street and stop in front of Style Counsel—Women (19 Main St., 845.986.9688, www.stylecounsel.net and Style Counsel—Men, 24 Railroad Ave., 845.986.6996). No, that’s not accurate; I don’t stop, I am stopped by the display windows. I want to be 23 and whippet-thin, with a cap of black Gatsby-era hair and a sassy attitude so that I can wear the sleeveless black dress with the big multicolored polka dots. But once inside, I realize one can be any age or style or figure and still find something here. Well, it helps to be female, so I square my shoulders and reluctantly leave, empty-handed. Don’t let it happen to you.

I drive away wondering what Warwick’s secret is. Why can’t every century-old town center be vibrant and quietly charming, preserved and contemporary at the same time? Why can’t I spend every weekend at The Inn at Stony Creek, dawdling over breakfast before a long walk down Main Street? Why can’t I wear that polka dot dress?